What is a Gaston move?

The way to identify a Gaston move isn’t by the hold but the position of the holds.

The Gaston move holds can be two crimps, slopes or on two edges. If the positive edge of the two holds are facing towards you then most likely it is a Gaston move

The Gaston move is executed by:

  1. Hand Position: The climber's hand grips the hold with the palm facing the wall and the thumb pointing downward.

  2. Body Position: The climber often positions their body sideways to the wall, using their back and shoulder muscles to generate the outward pulling force.

  3. Footwork: Good footwork is essential to maintain balance and leverage. The climber's feet should be positioned to help push their body away from the wall, reducing the strain on the arms.


The difficulty of the Gaston move can vary based on several factors:

  1. Hold Type: The nature of the hold (size, shape, texture) significantly impacts the difficulty. Small or slippery holds make the move more challenging.

  2. Body Positioning: Proper body positioning and balance are crucial. Incorrect positioning can lead to increased strain on the shoulder and arms, making the move harder.

  3. Strength and Technique: The move requires substantial upper body strength, particularly in the shoulders and back, as well as good technique to efficiently transfer force.

  4. Route Context: The overall difficulty is also influenced by the other moves on the route, the angle of the wall, and the climber's fatigue level.

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